punkin chunkin

Indecision.

I’ve been plagued with it.

Blazer or dress? Americano or latte? iPhone or Droid? Text or don’t text? Obama or Romney? (HAHAHA. Just kidding.)

But if LA can’t even decide if it’s summer or fall, why should I have to compromise?

I’m going to wear my blazer over my dress. I’ll drink two coffees today, thank you very much, iPad in bag, Droid in hand.

Summer outdoors? I shall eat my harvest pumpkin anyway. Spiced, nutmeggy pumpkin. Cinnamon-spiked creamy pumpkin. Blast my A/C with my cozy sweater on while I enjoy my Autumn snacks.

“Paradox-of-choice” problems which are easily solved.

The roommate and I bought Charlotte (Yay Russia Crew) an ice cream maker for her birthday and finally got together to put it to good use this weekend.

Boom. Pumpkin ice cream.

Perfect for an indecisive LA October day.

Now, what to do about my important problems that I can’t make decisions about…

Pumpkin Ice Cream
Recipe from Mr. David Lebovitz
Yield: 1 quart (not enough in my opinion)

1 1/2 cups (375 ml) whole milk
1 cup (250 ml) heavy cream
1/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons (95 g) granulated sugar
1 teaspoon freshly-grated ginger
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 cinnamon stick
1/2 teaspoon freshly-ground nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
5 large egg yolks
1/4 cup packed (60 g) dark brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
3/4 cup (180 g) canned pumpkin puree (100% pure)

Make an ice bath by putting some ice and a little water in a large bowl and nest a smaller metal bowl (one that will hold at least 2 quarts, 2l) inside it. Set a mesh strainer over the top.

In a medium saucepan mix the milk, cream, granulated sugar, ginger, ground cinnamon, cinnamon stick, nutmeg, and salt.

Warm the mixture until hot and the edges begin to bubble and foam.

Whisk the egg yolks in a separate bowl and gradually whisk in about half of the warm spiced milk mixture, stirring constantly.

Scrape the warmed yolks back in to the saucepan and cook over low heat, stirring constantly and scraping the bottom with a heatproof spatula, until the mixture thickens and coats the spatula. If using an instant-read thermometer, it should read between 160º-170ºF (71º-76ºC).

Immediately pour the mixture through the strainer into the bowl nested in the ice bath. Mix in the brown sugar, then stir until cool, then chill thoroughly, preferably overnight.

Whisk in the vanilla, liquor (if using), and pumpkin puree. Press the mixture through a fine-mesh strainer, then freeze in your ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

zucchini fritters

Las Vegas Labor Day Weekend.

Our last summer hurrah.

Thoughts:

1. House music. I still don’t really get it.
2. Michael Phelps at Surrender. Why hello, Most Decorated Olympian of all time.
3. Clubs. Too many sweaty people rubbing all up on you. Squeezing past a thousand house-crazed drunk people to get to the bathroom… Hm.
4. People in clubs. If you’re from LA, get ready to run into at least five people you know. Or meet all sorts of crazy people who want to stay in touch once you all get back to LA.
5. High heels. Ladies, why. Why do we wear them?! Blister band-aids are your best friend.
6. Ice bath for the feet at 4 a.m. Painful but your feet will thank you tomorrow.
7. Everyone’s comment of the night, “Going home already? How old are you???”
8. Old. I’m old and I just want to lie in bed with my Netflix and my puppy. Maybe a few beers if I’m feeling extra frisky.

Suffice to say, I’m Vegased out for the next year or more. No more Vegas for me.

And back to eating somewhat healthy. Drunken sunrise Earl of Sandwich tuna melt does not a meal make.

These fritters reminded me of Russia and our last meal at simplethings in Moscow. That was only a few months ago and already it feels like it’s been ages… Oh, dear Russia, how I do miss you.

Which reminds me… I need to book a trip somewhere ASAP.

Isn’t work so much less painful when you have something to look forward to? Maybe that’s why I’ve been antsy as of late… I have no trips planned!

Will change this very, very soon. Christmas vacay is coming up.

WHERE TO NEXT?!

Zucchini Fritters
Adapted a bit from smittenkitchen

Yield: About 10 2 1/2 inch fritters

1 pound (about 2 medium) zucchini
1 teaspoon coarse or Kosher salt, plus extra to taste
2 scallions, split lengthwise and sliced thin
1 large egg, lightly beaten
Freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup panko bread crumbs
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
Olive or another oil of your choice, for frying

To serve (optional)
1 cup sour cream or plain, full-fat yogurt
1 to 2 tablespoon lemon juice
1/4 teaspoon lemon zest
Pinches of salt
1 small minced or crushed clove of garlic

(I decided to be lazy and just topped mine with a garlic parsley sauce I bought at the farmer’s market)

Preheat oven to 200 degrees. Have a baking sheet ready.

Trim ends off zucchini and grate them either on the large holes of a box grater or, if you have one, using the shredding blade of a food processor. The latter is my favorite as I’m convinced it creates the coarsest and most rope-like strands and frankly, I like my fritters to look like mops.

In a large bowl, toss zucchini with 1 teaspoon coarse salt and set aside for 10 minutes. Wring out the zucchini in one of the following ways: pressing it against the holes of a colander with a wooden spoon to extract the water, squeezing out small handfuls at a time, or wrapping it up in a clean dishtowel or piece of cheese cloth and wringing away. You’ll be shocked (I was!) by the amount of liquid you’ll lose, but this is a good thing as it will save the fritters from sogginess.

Return deflated mass of zucchini shreds to bowl. Taste and if you think it could benefit from more salt (most rinses down the drain), add a little bit more; we found 1/4 teaspoon more just right. Stir in scallions, egg and some freshly ground black pepper. In a tiny dish, stir together panko crumbs and baking powder, then stir the mixture into the zucchini batter.

In a large heavy skillet — cast iron is dreamy here — heat 2 tablespoons of oil over medium-high heat until shimmering. Drop small bunches of the zucchini mixture onto the skillet only a few at a time so they don’t become crowded and lightly nudge them flatter with the back of your spatula. Cook the fritters over moderately high heat until the edges underneath are golden, about 3 to 4 minutes. If you find this happening too quickly, reduce the heat to medium. Flip the fritters and fry them on the other side until browned underneath again, about 2 to 3 minutes more. Drain briefly on paper towels then transfer to baking sheet and then into the warm oven until needed. Repeat process, keeping the pan well-oiled, with remaining batter. I like to make sure that the fritters have at least 10 minutes in the oven to finish setting and getting extra crisp.

For the topping, if using, stir together the sour cream, lemon juice, zest, salt and garlic and adjust the flavors to your taste. Dollop on each fritter before serving.

roasted tomato soup & grilled cheese

I’m sick of everything.

Recently, I feel as if I’m constantly being challenged. Thrown on one long emotional roller coaster without end in sight. Faced with choices that I’ve made, regrets that I have, and a mild fear of what I might become. Sometimes I wish I could just hide and wait it out for a few years after all the complicated shit is over.

Is it ever over?

2012 has been tumultuous to say the least. When it rains, it pours.

I don’t want to have any regrets, but it seems I can’t do anything right anymore.

I need comfort food.

Soup is good at keeping me company.

Soup is quite possibly the best remedy for when I’m feeling down. Along with Cary Grant and red wine. Let’s throw in John Mayer’s “Battle Studies” while we’re at it. I hate feeling down when it’s an Indian summer outside. It makes eating soup and wallowing under the covers highly uncomfortable.

Roasted Tomato Soup
adapted from smittenkitchen

Serves 4 (though closer to 6 if served in mugs)

Soup
3 pounds tomatoes, halved lengthwise
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 cloves garlic, unpeeled
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh thyme leaves
1/2 teaspoon dried crushed red pepper
2 cups chicken or vegetable stock

Lid
4 1-inch slices from a large loaf of rye bread, whole wheat sourdough or bread of your choice (or 16 1-inch slices from a baguette), toasted until hard and lightly buttered on one side
1 tablespoon grated raw onion
1 cup coarsely grated cheddar (or more to taste)

Make soup: Preheat oven to 400°F. Wrap garlic cloves in a tight foil packet. Place tomatoes, cut side up, on large baking sheet. Sprinkle generously with salt and pepper (I used 1 full teaspoon of Kosher salt). Drizzle tomatoes with olive oil. Add foil packet of garlic to tray. Roast until tomatoes are brown and tender (garlic will be very tender), about 1 hour. Cool slightly.

Unwrap garlic packet and peel cloves. Transfer cloves, tomatoes and any accumulated juices to a blender or food processor and pulse machine on and off until tomatoes are a chunky puree. Transfer tomatoes to medium pot and add thyme, crushed red pepper and stock and bring to a boil Reduce heat to a simmer and cook, uncovered, for 25 minutes. Remove from heat and adjust seasonings to taste.

Create cheddar lid: Preheat oven to 350. Arrange four ovenproof soup bowls, crocks or large mugs on a large, foil-lined baking sheet. Stir grated onion into the warm soup. (I love this last-minute suggestion of onion.) Float toast slice(s) in each bowl, buttered side up and divide grated cheese generously over top. (If you’re using a wide bowl, you might find that you want more cheese to create a thick, broiled lid.) Bake soups on tray for 15 to 20 minutes, until cheese on top is bubbling and brown at the edges. If you’d like it even more bronzed on top, preheat your broiler and finish soups for a minute or two under it. Serve immediately.

Do ahead: Soup can be prepared one day ahead, and kept covered in the fridge. Rewarm before serving, or before finishing with cheddar crouton.

summer berry jammin’

In May, I went blueberry picking at Underwood Family Farms, a quaint little family farm hidden in the valleys of Somis. The early blueberries were so incredible and only $4 a pound (what a steal!) and there were a bunch of still green berry bushes a few months back so I’ve been patiently waiting…

And the raspberries and blackberries are here!

Delicious little antioxidant hairy powerhouse superfruit! Each one is perfectly amazing.

Be careful though. These bushes have a ton of thorns and I scratched up my hand grabbing greedily through the brambles. It made squeezing fresh lemon juice for my jams …. Let’s say the experience was unpleasant to say the least. Like dipping my fingers in battery acid.

Picking berries on a hot August morning. A perfect Cali summer.

There is always like one ripe one among ten unripe ones. These little tricksters be hiding from me.

Charlyne loves berries!

Narhee loves berries!

Charlotte definitely loves berries… “Hehhhh.”

Eight pounds of our loot!

But we’re not done yet.

Raspberry bushes!!! OMNOMNOMROM….

We brainstormed a million things to do with these berries… Pies, tarts, cakes…. I mean, what do you do with ten pounds of berries?? Brainstorming all of this on our drive down from Simi Valley really took it’s toll on our energy.

And we ended up being too tired and hungry and headed straight to Chego instead.

Don’t get in the way of us and our food. CHOW TIME IS NOW TIME. Our bellies wait for no one. Especially when it’s delicious grub in an unassuming strip mall in Culver City.

The Ooey Gooey Fries, Burgers, and Chubby Pork Belly bowl  - savory umami flavors in my MOUTH. Why is everything Roy Choi does so amazing? Whole cloves of pickled garlic, 1/2 pound grass-fed beef burger, Kimchi sour cream, grilled pineapple, Chinese broccoli, Korean marinaded Kurobuta… The man’s food truly embodies Los Angeles. A perfect harmonious fusion of ingredients and cuisines.

After stuffing our faces silly, I knocked the eff out for a few hours. I would never survive on a real farm.

But let’s just fake it for a little bit while I make some jam, okay? Getting all domestic up in here. A lot of the raspberries were delicate and overripe and managed to mash themselves on the ride back home, so I did some jammin’ since half the job was done for me already.

Raspberries! Framboise!

Jam is easy to make as long as you have the patience to sit in front of a simmering pot for a few hours. Constant, endless stirring so that the jam doesn’t explode all over your kitchen. I accidentally walked away for a couple minutes to have a Neon Trees singing session and ended up having to clean up burbled over raspberry sugar off of my stovetop. No bueno, man. Nyet spasi.

This jam’ll last me a while. As for the blackberries… I’ll figure out what to bake with those if I don’t end up eating all of them first.

Raspberry Jam

4 cups raspberries
2 cups sugar
Juice of one lemon

Mash raspberriess to a pulp in a medium-sized pot and bring to a boil at medium-high heat. Add sugar and boil for 3 more minutes. When mixture begins to boil, lower heart to medium-low and simmer for 30 minutes.

After 3o minutes, add lemon juice and simmer at about medium low for 30 minutes – 1 hour until it comes to a jam-like consistency. To test if jam is done, spread some onto a small plate and refrigerate for one minute. You should be able to swipe your finger through it and it won’t come back together.

Add to sterilized jars and seal tightly. I don’t have proper jam jars so I stuck mine in the fridge right away. Best to eat this right away! If you want to keep your’s around for a longer shelf life, you’ll want to boil proper jam jars and sterilize all your utensils, etc.

Looking forward to spreading this with some goat cheese onto my breakfast toast!

old-fashioned doughnuts.. driving me mad

I am a perfectionist.

I am not forgiving of my own mistakes. It drives me insane when I do everything right and things don’t go according to plan. I get frustrated, annoyed, and end up chucking half-started projects into the trash.

It’s kind of what happened with these doughnuts.

The plan was to make some amazing old-fashioned cake donuts.

Dreams of moist cake interior encrusted in a crispy sugar-coated shell danced in my head.

I followed the directions to the tee. (Kind of.)

They looked fine coming out of the fryer. I always say you can’t go wrong when you fry something. Twice wrong in one day. Already off to a bad start!

And…

They look so much better than they tasted. Not the texture I was looking for at all! Too bready and dense. Not satisfied whatsoever. For the record, the chocolate glaze was good, though.  I was so deeply unsatisfied, I went for Round 2 the very next day.

And….  I’m still not 100% convinced. They look pretty though, right?

The second batch I feel lukewarm about. “Better than last time” is not what I was aiming for.

Old-fashioned Doughnuts: 2. Jean: 0.

Stupid elusive doughnut!!!! I need some better tips for round 3… Suggestions?

If I did attempt one of these recipes again, I’d go with the second recipe with cake flour and sour cream in it. It was more tender and had that cake, cruller, craggy-topped doughnut I was looking for. My suspicion is that I didn’t heat the oil hot enough, no candy thermometer and all. Deep-frying is still an art I am very, very far from perfecting.

Curse you doughnut!

The perfectionist in me is off crying somewhere. I usually console my failure with fried food but that’s not really working for me right now.

Recipe #1:
Old Fashioned Doughnuts with Chocolate Glaze
makes between 6 and 10 doughnuts

1 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon fresh grated nutmeg
pinch of salt
1/3 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup plain yogurt
1 large egg
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted
vegetable oil for frying

In a medium bowl, sift together flour, baking soda, nutmeg, salt, and sugar.

In a separate small bowl, whisk together yogurt (or sour cream), egg, and melted butter.  Add the wet ingredients to the dry ingredients and fold together until well incorporated.  The dough will take some smooshing to gather into a dish.  It will be like a slightly more moist biscuit dough.  Wrap bowl in plastic wrap and place in the fridge to rest for 15 minutes.

Place a candy/fry thermometer in a medium saucepan.  Pour oil into the pan until it is about 2-inches deep.  Heat oil over medium-low heat.

On a lightly floured work surface, roll bough to a 1/2-inch thickness.  Cut doughnuts with a 2 1/2-inch round cutter, and cut a hole with a smaller circle cutter.

When oil reaches 360 degrees F, fry 2 or 3 doughnuts at a time for about 1 minute on each side.  Doughnuts will be golden brown.  Carefully pull out, drain, and let rest on towel paper.
Recipe #2
Old-Fashioned Sour Cream Doughnuts with Vanilla Glaze
Makes one dozen donuts and holes

2 1/4 cup (255 grams) cake flour
1 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/2 cup (100 grams) sugar
2 tablespoons butter flavored shortening
2 large egg yolks
1/2 cup (4 fluid ounces) sour cream
Canola oil, for frying

In a bowl, sift together the cake flour, baking powder, salt and nutmeg.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, beat the shortening and sugar together until sandy. Add the egg yolks and mix until light and thick.

Add the dry ingredients to the mixing bowl in 3 additions, alternating with the sour cream, ending with the flour, scraping the sides of the bowl down as necessary. The dough will be sticky. Spoon it into a clean bowl, cover with plastic wrap and chill for 1 hour.

On a floured surface, roll out the chilled dough to about 1/2 inch thick. Use a donut cutter or two differently sized biscuit cutters to cut out as many donuts as possible, dipping the cutters into flour as necessary to prevent sticking.

Pour the canola oil into a heavy bottomed pot to at least 2 inches deep. Heat to 325 degrees F. Add the donuts to the heated oil a few at a time, careful not to overcrowd the pot. Fry on each side about 2 minutes, but watch to make sure they don’t burn.

Let drain on a paper bag to soak up the excess grease.

Vanilla or Chocolate Glaze

1 1/2 cups powdered sugar
3 tablespoons milk or water
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
For chocolate glaze add: 4 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder

In a medium bowl, whisk together powdered sugar (and cocoa powder if making chocolate glaze.) Slowly stir in milk and vanilla extract. Whisk until silky and smooth. If you need a touch more milk to make this a dippable glaze, add a bit more.

Dip doughnuts in glaze and let rest to harden slightly.